In this Olympic year, what better way to introduce the liqueur wines of Sauternes and Barsac than this title. A unique terroir, demanding and challenging, where each vintage holds its share of surprises. Here, more than anywhere else in the Bordeaux vineyard, the nerves of winemakers are put to the test year after year, with a simple goal: produce a unique nectar, the color of the most prestigious metal, capable of enduring decades.
Chain of difficult vintages, consumer disinterest (rightly or wrongly), Sauternes and Barsac had to reinvent themselves to rise from the ashes. It must be admitted that these are two names that do not leave anyone. Iconic wines of the most singular complexity, no one remains insensitive to so much sweetness and elegance.
History of the name, reasons for the malaise and means by which they try to get out, forward for a journey that resembles to mistake it to an ode to sweetness. Finally, you will find at the end of this article my opinion on these names, with some tips for possible agreements.
History
Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée since 1936, it is necessary to go back to 19th century to find trace of the first writings attesting to a production of wines on Sauternais.
Composed of 1,900 hectares spread over 5 communes (Barsac, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac and Sauternes), the appellation accounts for only 2% of the production of the entire Bordeaux vineyard. In all, there are more than 120 properties, 27 of which had the opportunity to be ranked among the best when the classification of wines of the Médoc established in 1855 at the request of Napoleon III. They are divided into 3 distinct classifications: Premier cru classé supérieur (Yquem), Premier cru classé and Second cru classé. Some properties, however, have nothing to envy their neighbors other than the classification, given the quality of the wines they produce.
3 varieties are grown: Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. Each will bring its character during the final blend. The Semillon, mostly for its fat, richness and roundness. The Sauvignon for its acidity and aromatic, full of freshness and subtlety. Finally, the Muscadelle, in a very controlled and minority part, to bring its complexity and its creaminess.
The terroir is mainly composed of layers of gravel (of different thicknesses) on a clay-limestone, limestone or sandy subsoil, ideal for the production of exceptional wines.
However, and this is where these two names are unique on the Bordeaux, nothing would be possible without the appearance of Botrytis Cinerea, a mushroom that bears the sweet name of noble rot. The 3 varieties cultivated there are all sensitive to the implementation of this rot. It is the latter that will allow the grapes to develop aromas that make the wines unique in complexity.
But how does this fungus appear?
It all starts with a river, the Ciron. Long 97 km it starts in the Landes de Gascogne, crosses the south of the Gironde, passes through the Sauternais to go to join the Garonne at Barsac. It is at the encounter of these two waters with different temperatures that a typical fog of the terroir of Sauternes will arise. This morning fog brings the moisture necessary for the development of a fungus, the Botrytis Cinerea. The skin of the grapes will be weakened and will allow the berries to lose water. The heat that sets in from the middle of the day will serve, as it allows the grapes to mature properly by bringing sun and heat.
The date of harvest will be decided when the winegrowers consider that the grapes are at the maturity they expected. Unfortunately, there are years when the Botrytis is not there, and that’s where the castle teams will have to show their range of skills, but most importantly, it’s at this time that they will have to make decisions, sometimes with heavy consequences.
Here, more than anywhere else, the harvest is difficult because it requires several passages in the plots. Each pass is called a sort, usually 3 to 5 tries are made in order to harvest the berries at different stages of maturity.
The vinification techniques do not differ from conventional white wines, which may differ is their placing in barrels or not for aging, once again, it all depends on the choices made by the technical teams.
You will have understood, the liquorous wines of Sauternes-Barsac are truly unique, especially thanks to their terroir, without which nothing would be possible. The hand of man only sublimates what nature offers. Unfortunately, the appellation suffers from a drop in production which is now damaging to an entire production.
Appellations to be abandoned?
In recent years, wine has become a less and less consumed drink. Lack of knowledge on the part of the younger generations, anti-alcohol lobby, emergence of the world of spirits, economic problem, the reasons are vast and destroy, unfortunately, a whole sector.
Nowadays, the sweet wines of Sauternes-Barsac are neglected by consumers. Judged by the younger generations as being too heavy, too sweet, not easy to digest, but also too expensive, they easily prefer dry white wines from the neighbouring appellation of Graves. Rightly or wrongly, the fact is that these names are suffering from a growing abandonment, which has been going on for many years now. Consumption patterns change, let’s combine with complicated vintages due to a climate of the most dangerous for the development of Botrytis, and you will understand in a few seconds the malaise of many winemakers.
Indeed, for too long the sweet wines were assimilated to festive end of year meals, accompanied by the famous foie gras served as an appetizer. But is this really wrong? Has this agreement not been nurtured over time, to make it the only one possible? Who has not seen his elder take out a Sauternes and praise us the merits of his agreement?
A question that bothers me then, would it be utopian to think that we can drink a Sauternes with another type of dish? The answer is, without any hesitation, YES! What a shame it would be to limit a wine to only one possible agreement. As an aperitif, as a side dish of a main course, with cheese, or as a digestif, there are many ways to open a sweet wine, but you have to be curious and sometimes even a little reckless. On the vivacity during his young years, on the creaminess and aromatic complexity after several years of aging, there is really way to have fun and make a fury to bring out these wines, even if it surprises his guests. It was therefore necessary to question the properties in order to rethink their wines, make them more digestible but above all, more in the era of time.
An indispensable rebirth
Many winemakers have had to revise their copy in order to heal the wounds of so many dark years. More and more properties are producing dry white wines. Proof that the terroir of Sauternes and Barsacais is not only destined to produce liquoreux.
These wines are remarkably made, and are especially beautiful signatures for winemakers who risk it. But can we really talk about risk? Given how difficult it is to produce sweet wines, it seems like a formality to get out high quality dry wines with a very good aging potential. Whether the grapes come from plots dedicated to them or from the same plots used to produce liqueurs, the properties are constantly trying to innovate, but above all, they are fighting for a name that will enhance their wines.
Take the example of Yquem and Rayne Vigneau, which have been doing it for many years now. Today, their neighbours are gradually showing their ingenuity in order to try to stand out and impose their style.
In addition to the dry, the properties produce various wines, from the first, extenders of the property, to the second or third wine, no one is harmed.
The second and third wines are there to allow a first approach of the castle. More fresh and fruity, they have a limited storage potential, but it does not matter, the objective is not to preserve them but rather to consume them, and that is what consumers like. The residual sugar levels are lower, which allows these wines to be perceived as more digestible. Moreover, the third wines can be used in the elaboration of cocktails, which is very popular with mixology lovers. However, there are still 2 schools for these processes. The older generation, more traditionalist, does not see favourably the production of these wines for use in cocktails (good or bad idea, I leave you to be judge).
The first wines, meanwhile, had to be rethought, finished the bodybuilders in overmaturity, testosterone in residual sugar. Today, winemakers are looking for subtlety, aromatic complexity and freshness, but especially digestibility (a somewhat barbaric term, it must be admitted), and this is where the difference will be made in the years to come. With the climate constantly warming, the question will not be who will have the riper grapes, but rather, who will be able to keep their aroma and freshness. A challenge that winemakers are ready to take on.
The appellations have a union, led in co-chairmanship by Jean-Jacques Dubourdieu (Domaines Denis Duburdieu) and David Bolzan (Vignobles Silvio Denz).
In 1979, a Sauternes house was created in the heart of the village. It is an association of winegrowers, who come to promote their wines. Every year, two cuvées are produced with the objective of being able to finance the operation of the house. For classified wines, the châteaux Yquem, Climens and Rayne Vigneau, among others, and for unclassified wines, Bastor-Lamontagne, Haut-Bergeron, Raymond Lafon and al.
The first cuvée, Duc de Sauternes, is made from the 0.5% of the harvest of each member winemaker. The second, Duc de Sauternes special cuvée, is composed by the assemblage of several classified crus of the appellation.
Finally, in addition to an wine tourism offer that is enriched over the years, the properties organize many events, including the golden aperitifs of the castle La Tour Blanche or the brunch of 1st Sunday of each month at Château Rayne Vigneau. Dynamic names that show you must never give up.
You will understand, after the storm comes the good weather. A long tunnel crossed by these names, which finally glimpse the end after big questions. Not everything is won, but it must be admitted that the properties are holding up well.
personal opinion
I must confess that the wines of Sauternes-Barsac are in a way my madeleine de Proust. I am amazed at so much sweetness, complexity, elegance but especially potential. These wines perfectly fit the following expression: The only limits that exist are those imposed on oneself. Even if my preference goes to the liqueurs who are already 15-20 years old, I must say that I was very pleasantly surprised by the drinkability of the last vintages, with especially the two shining vintages that are 2017 and 2021. Yes, these are wines that need time, but in their young years they have so much to express that it would be a pity to deprive themselves of it.
Two names that I think deserve more recognition from the consumer.
Some say that you never forget your first yquem, and it’s true, however, I like to say that you never forget your first great liqueur. I still remember a Rayne Vigneau 1996 (drunk in 2023) of exceptional youth. Finally, it’s all about the moment, the people with whom we taste these wines, but especially the agreement that we will make with them.
To discover all this and bring concrete to my words, I strongly advise you to visit the various properties of the appellations Sauternes and Barsac, as well as the house of Sauternes. You will discover the whole universe of this appellation in the company of very welcoming hosts. You can also enjoy a few drinks to illustrate what you have learned. Visiting this house is to understand the very essence of these two iconic names in the Bordeaux landscape.
Advice on possible pairings
As I said in the preamble to this article, for many years we have confined the Sauternes (or the Barsac) only one possible agreement: foie gras. A misconception that has passed its time today and that contributes to the abandonment of these names by the consumer. Why saturate your palate with sugar when you are already enjoying a very rich dish? Here are some ideas of possible agreements, which are only my own, of course, but which deserve to be tested.
Earlier in this article, I presented the second and third wines produced by the châteaux. Indeed, they are fresh, fruity and already expressive of the sauternes terroirs, without having too much residual sugars. You can enjoy them well fresh, as an aperitif, with a little bit of Tzatziki on a blinis. If you do not want to tune them, you can simply taste them themselves. The idea with these wines is not to age them, but rather to taste them in their youth so as to enjoy all their energy.
For the first wines, there clearly we have something to enjoy.
At first, as an entrance, the ideal agreement is with beautiful fresh asparagus. Prefer a wine in its youth. Its freshness, vivacity and also its aroma lend themselves very well to this type of agreement. A Filhot 2021 castle will do the trick perfectly.
As a dish, dare a nice roast chicken with potatoes, you know, the one we eat in front of Walker Texas Ranger on Sunday. For this, take a liquoreux that is already a little ten years old, its slight aging will allow it to develop notes conducive to this kind of agreement. Simple, effective. I remember a very beautiful 2012 Doisy-Daëne castle that you can go to with your eyes closed.
For cheese, here we get serious. Dare a Sauternes who is already 15-20 years old minimum. The complexity acquired through such a guard will be perfect, and will marry perfectly with a nice type of cheese Comté or Cantal well-ripened. Many would also think of blue cheese, and this is not a mistake, but the agreement would be too conventional. A Château Rayne Vigneau 2005 for example. Attention, perfection is not far away.
Enfin, et ça va faire grincer des dents, je n’aime pas le liquoreux sur le dessert. Trop de sucre tue le sucre, cependant, en fin de repas en guise de digestif, là c’est parfait. Un vieux liquoreux se suffit à lui-même. Sur les plus gros millésimes, il y a vraiment moyen d’être stupéfait par tant de fraîcheur, de complexité et d’expression aromatique. Mes papilles en frétillent encore rien qu’à repenser à ce château Yquem 1995 bu dernièrement, si vous en avez en cave, allez-y, c’est le meilleur moyen de finir son repas en apothéose.
Finally, for the liquoreux, I share my little atypical agreement: The sushis. Yes! You can easily marry a sweet with sushi, but it is necessary that he is in his youth to enjoy the maximum of his vivacity.
As also presented above, the properties produce very beautiful dry white wines. Pair them with dishes based on crustaceans, fish and white meat. Do not just reserve Graves wines for the oysters in the basin. The dry whites of the Sauternes and Barsacais terroirs will satisfy you and surprise your guests.