As every year, the world of wine met from 12 to 14 February in Paris, at the Palais des Expositions of the Porte de Versailles, for the 5th edition ofth Wine Paris. This event is a must on the calendar since it is an opportunity for professionals to meet to discover or rediscover wines from all French regions, with this year again, a pavilion dedicated to foreign wines.
A living room with the appearance of a marathon, where the 3 days are barely enough if you want to take the time to discover each pavilion.
For my part, being present only one day, I focused on Bordeaux wines, even if, as you will see below, I was able to discover a nugget outside my favorite wine region.
Meeting point in Hall 6. The tone is set, once again, the stands are majestic. Between classicism and modernism, like the wines they market, the large Bordeaux trading companies shine with a thousand lights. The traders are on their 31, ready to receive suppliers, customers and future barges.
The different Girondine appellations are also represented through the many properties that, once again, have responded present.
The first tasting brought me to the stand of the big circle, where as usual, I took a huge pleasure to taste the wines of the castles Fonroque (Saint-Émilion) and Mazeyres (Pomerol). I also discovered the Château Petit Bocq, in the Saint-Estèphe appellation.
Ensuite, il ne suffisait de traverser l’allée afin d’aller découvrir le stand des Crus Bourgeois. Classement crée en 1932, aujourd’hui ce ne sont pas moins de 249 domaines répartis en trois classifications : Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur et Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. Les vins sont en libre accès, alors, courage à celui qui entreprendra de découvrir les 249.
At the tasting these are mainly the 2020, 2019 and 2018 vintages. After discovering about 20, it confirms what I think of this magnificent trio. They all have incredible potential.
2018 begins to reveal itself nicely, with a beautiful aromatic richness, an elegant tannic frame and for some, a beautiful freshness. 2019, like its big brother, is rich, ample, but the tannins are still a little too pronounced, we feel that this vintage will need a little more time. Finally 2020, and here, I must say that I am a fan. What is striking is this freshness, this elegance, but especially this drinkability, it is disconcerting for such a young vintage.
Qui a dit qu’il fallait attendre 10 ans avant de déguster un Bordeaux ?
Ensuite, direction le pavillon 3 à la rencontre du château Croix de Labrie. Une propriété que je connais déjà, et qui n’a fait que confirmer toute l’estime que j’ai pour elle. J’ai pu découvrir le 2021, fraîchement mis en bouteille, et redécouvrir le 2020, déjà noté précédemment (lien), en compagnie de Pierre Courdurié. Un 2021 élégant, fruité avec une belle fraîcheur. Un des très grands de l’appellation sur ce millésime, sans aucun doute. Le 2020, quant à lui, est fidèle à lui-même, raffiné, frais, élégant, bref, majestueux. Même s’il nécessite un peu de garde pour gagner en complexité, sa buvabilité est stupéfiante, les amateurs de vins jeunes seront conquis.
After this beautiful moment of sharing, I was able to discover an area that has undoubtedly become my favorite of the show, so thank you Pierre for the recommendation.
Domaine Cassagne et Vitailles, founded in 2016 and nestled in the heart of Languedoc, produces a wide range of wines, gathered under various appellations (Terrasses du Larzac, Montpeyroux, Vin de France). A work of the vineyard in organic and biodynamic, where the terroir is king. As they say so well, man is only passing through, only the terroir remains. A moment of exceptional sharing, as well as the tasting that will follow.
What struck me the most was the homogeneity of their range. From entry to the highest end, the key words are harmony, balance, finesse but above all elegance. A quest for perfection perfectly represented through each cuvée. It is difficult to bring out a great winner because everyone knows how to stand out and impose his character so singular. A moment out of time with Matthieu and Nicolas, the founders of this domain, that I will not fail to visit during the year, to follow then.
Then, go to pavilion 7, at the UGCB stand to discover the 2021 vintage. Rather strange location since, in previous years, the tasting of the Union had him in the Bordeaux pavilion.
If, it must be admitted, the conditions were not met to make 2021 a great vintage, the fact remains that it is one of those for whom it will be easy to take pleasure from its young years.
The whites of the Graves are the quintessence of what can be expected of them. A wonderful vivacity, a considerable aromatic intensity and a great minerality, this is how we can describe them in a few words. Special mention for the whites of the Pape Clément and Smith Haut Lafitte castles that fly over this tasting.
The Sauternes, too, are exceptional. A considerable aromatic depth, very well mastered sweetness, but above all a remarkable finesse. Gourmet wines, fresh and cut for a very long aging. Gourmet wines, fresh and cut for a very long aging. Special mention for this Château Coutet sharp, elegant, and very refined, like the wines of this property, of incredible consistency. Only small downside, because yes, in Sauternes, even more than on the other appellations, the years pass and never look alike, 2021 is therefore part of these very exclusive vintages because of their low yield.
Finally, for the reds, 2021 is a little more heterogeneous, but with a very good potential though. It is of these vintages that will be easily tasted in their youth, but that will know, for the best, to age for many years.
Special mention for the Saint-Julien appellation, of great homogeneity, as usual, with castles Beychevelle, Lagrange, and Léoville Barton captivating by their elegance and freshness. On the left bank again, little crush for the castles Phélan Ségur (Saint-Estèphe), Armailhac, Pichon Baron and Pichon Comtesse (Pauillac), Rauzan-Ségla and Brane Cantenac (Margaux). On the graves and Pessac-Léognan, the castles Pape Clément, Smith Haut Lafitte and Carbonnieux stand out very well. The right bank is not left behind either with the castles Canon, Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin (Saint-Émilion), Clinet and La Pointe (Pomerol).
A vintage that I was waiting for, I must admit, at a moment’s notice given what I could read. No real disappointments, on the contrary, I was rather pleasantly surprised.
Finally, I was able to finish the show by the discovery of an explosive Burgundy winemaker, Alexandre Vernet of the Burgundy estate Hoffmann-Jayer. An unpretentious tasting filled with sharing and laughter around wines that make Burgundy a region of excellence. Whites of very good quality, and reds at the height of what can be expected of their terroir.
Mention spéciale pour cet Échezeaux Grand Cru qui m’a fait dire, en tant que grand amateur de Bordeaux, « WOW » sur un vin bourguignon. Peut-être suis-je un peu trop exigeant avec cette région au vue des prix pratiqués ? La question se pose légitimement. En tout cas, merci Alexandre d’avoir défendu fièrement son terroir et le fruit de son dévouement quotidien.
In conclusion, this new edition of Wine Paris was, as usual, rich in discoveries, sharing, but especially in tastings. A big thank you to the various people I met or found during this event, very beautiful things happen, stay connected.
KG